A look at what's new in Fishtown | Let's Eat

The two guys behind Cheu and Bing Bing Dim Sum will unwrap a Japanese izakaya onMonday, Oct. 1, next door to Cheu Fishtown. I’ll run down the details. Also this week, I’ll point outtasty tacos (y mas) in Downingtown and a family-run Italian BYOB in Horsham.If you need food news,click hereand follow me on Twitter and Instagram. Email tips, suggestions, andquestionshere. If someoneforwarded you this newsletter and youlikewhat you’re reading, sign up here to get it free every week.

Michael Klein


Nunu: Red all about it

After riffing on Southeast Asian flavors at Bing Bing Dim Sum and the two Cheu restaurants, chef Ben Puchowitz and business partner Shawn Darragh needed a break. But then the space next door to Cheu Fishtown became available.

Time to open a fourth bar-restaurant and thwart a potential competitor.

A trip to Japan prompted them to theme it to the izakaya, the snug bars that dot Japan and draw a cross-section of Japanese customers.

At Nunu (1414 Frankford Ave.), opening Oct. 1, Puchowitz puts outyakitori, grilled items (including avocadoand served with ponzu sauce, burnt bread crumbs, sea salt, and smoked trout roe), a toast, raw items, Japanese curry, and katsu sandwiches in chill environs beneath red lanterns.

By all means, try the Impossible Burger, coated in panko, topped with a slaw of katsu sauce, mayo, and cabbage, and served on milk bread from Lost Bread Co. The bar features sake, a few cocktails, and a specialtap system that mixes seltzer with whiskey, right in front of you, for lower-octane highballs.

Hours are5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Monday to Friday, and noon to 1 a.m. Saturday and Sunday (kitchen open till midnight). Walk-in only.

Japanese omakase menus, meanwhile, are becoming a thing in town.


This week’s openings

North Italia| King of Prussia

One of the bigger newcomers in KoP, this Italian bar-restaurant from Arizona-based James Beard nominee Sam Fox seats 306 people at King of Prussia Mall.Specialties arehouse-made pasta and pizza from an exhibition kitchen.

Nunu| Fishtown

See above.

Sakana Omakase Sushi| Queen Village

Sam Lin opens a 12-seat sushi bar at 616 S. Second St. on Oct. 2.

Saxbys| Wynnefield

The coffee company opens another of its student-run Experiential Learning Cafes at Saint Joseph’s University, 5600 City Ave., on Oct. 1.


This week’s closings

Milk & Honey | Queen Village

After six years, the coffee shop at Fourth and Gaskill Streets shut down. A new operator is due to take over shortly.

More Than Just Ice Cream| Washington Square West

Thursday, Sept. 27 is the finale of this Gayborhood destination after many years. This fall, the location will become Winkel, a breakfast-lunch spot from chef Joncarl Lachman.

Trax Cafe | Ambler

The longtime American BYOB next to Ambler’s train station is now open only for private events.


Where we’re enjoying happy hour

Camera icon MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Cheesesteak spring roll at Jansen.

Jansen7402 Germantown Ave.; 4:30-6:30 p.m. Wednesday-Friday

One of the great food inventions of the 1990s was the cheesesteak spring roll —thecrunchy-on-the-outside, hot-and-gooey-on-the-inside snack. At least two local establishments claim credit: Davio’s, the Boston-based Italian steak house whose owner, SteveDiFillippo, now sells them by the millions in your grocer’s freezer, and the old Fountain at the Four Seasons. One of the Fountain’s top chefs, David Jansen, moved on to his own restaurant. Jansen is set upin a stone mansion in Mount Airy with arefined American menu. The charming patio and garden out back, tucked off Germantown Avenue, host happy hour three nights a week. Jansen offers such bites ascheesesteak spring rolls ($12, with spicy ketchup), deviled eggs, bang bang shrimp, and truffle fries with a couple of French wines (a rose anda white, $9), a vodka-limoncello cocktail and margarita ($8), and one beer, Evil Genius’ Stacy’s Mom ($5). Get there soon, as it’s seasonal.


Where we’re eating

Camera icon MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
The H Town Taco at Estrella Tacos y Mas, Downingtown.

Estrella Tacos y Mas202 E. Lancaster Ave., Downingtown

Megan Bruton, raised in Austin and living with husband C.W. Bruton in Chester County, was homesick for tacos. Turns out, they both really needed a change —she from her corporate job with Insomnia Cookies and he from his corporate job at Saladworks. They opened this family-friendly taqueria on the ground floor of the stone building that also houses East Branch Brewing Co.Chef Alex Shimpeno’s menu hits the Southwest, and his smoker turns out tender brisket. You can get breakfast tacos all day, built on fresh flour tortillas. Bar is stocked with Pennsylvania beers, wines, and spirits.

Camera icon MICHAEL KLEIN / Staff
Trofie U’Panzerott at U’Panzerott, Horsham.

U’Panzerott 537 Easton Rd., Horsham

The Dattoli family came to Americafrom Puglia when father Cosimo —attached to the Italian navy —was posted to an office inside the U.S. Navy’s Aviation Supply Office in Northeast Philadelphia. Wife Marina and kids Piero and Natasha came to love America. They’ve opened this contemporary BYOB at the end of a strip mall in Horsham. The wood-firedoven turns out first-rate Neapolitan pizzas. You can get the signature panzerotti or an oversize sandwich (pucce), while Marina whips up pastas with luscious sauces, including the thin, twisted pasta known as trofie, with mushrooms and sausage (choose sweet or hot) and in a rose sauce and topped with arugula, grape tomatoes, and a generous portion of Grana Padano. Note: Closed Monday and Tuesday.


Dining Notes

Feastival, one of the biggies on the city’s food calendar, is Thursday, Sept. 27, at FringeArts, under the Ben Franklin Bridge. For its ninth year, it’s tweaking the concept: 60 chefs are paired off to create dishes based on Philly neighborhoods.

Sat Kampar in bringing theflavors of Crazy Rich Asiansto Philly.Thefeast costs $48a person and is available by reservation only.

Six restaurants and13 local craft breweries and distilleries get together at Broad Street and West Passyunk Avenue for the annual South Philly SausageFest, noon-7 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 29.

Chris’ Jazz Cafe (1421 Sansom St.) is offering lunch for5 bucks from Oct. 1-5 (11 a.m.-3 p.m.): Monday is a cheeseburger club,Tuesday is truffle chicken pot pie, Wednesday is jambalaya, Thursday is a French dip sandwich, and Friday is a fried fish sandwich.